How’d you do that?
December 27, 2020Recently I have had a fair number of people reach out and want to discuss my overall work flow when shooting rolling images of vehicles; and the reasons behind the choices I make to create the images. Now being that it is quite slow for me these days, and I have very little video experience, I figured a short blog post regarding my favourite way to capture your most liked images would suffice for the time being. I should mention that I am working my way towards a video platform and trying to make the best choices regarding how to go about that. But thats enough of a tease for now. Let’s get to it, shall we?
How in the world do I make a car look like that?
The absolute first thing I want to say is that safety is the most important thing here. Taking these kinds of shots naturally incurs all sorts of risk. Being that 99% of the time the camera (and sometimes myself) are partially or completely outside of a moving vehicle there are steps to take to make sure I am getting the best possible images, in the most controlled environment possible. This is not to say that risk should be avoided, because in all honesty, one of my favourite rolling shots I’ve ever captured (Of the two Lamborghinis below) was taken with my hand inches away from the moving wheel of a 1967 Pontiac Firebird Convertible driving at full highway speeds along the coast of Okanagan Lake.
“How is that even slightly controlled though Shane?”
“That seems incredibly dangerous.”
Okay okay, thanks Mom. Here are some of the practices put in place (regarding that particular image)
First of all, it was taken during a very large charity event. So large in fact, that entire section of highway was blocked off by the Police to allow the least amount of interference for videographers, photographers, drivers, and co-pilots. Second; I was attached to the car via a safety tether which attached directly to where the seat belt bolts in. I wasn’t going anywhere. As far as my driver: there are conversations to have before I jump out of any vehicle. I need to make sure that my driver is competent, confident, and knows how to manage a vehicles movements to create the smoothest possible ride while they have some wind resistance that is my ass, out the side of the car. Finally my camera. That financial mistake I love so much is triple wrapped around my wrist, all the way up my arm with a Takata camera strap that I have come to trust more than I maybe should. I also have to just make sure I don’t let go. Sounds easy doesn’t it?
“But what about the back road images where there are no Police escorts?”
Like this one?
Yeah yeah yeah, you got me. I didn’t have the authorities closing off this road for me. So what could I possibly have done to make sure that this was as controlled as possible? Well first of all; it’s a back road. Not just a side road around the city either. It’s about a half hour drive outside of the city to get to the turnoff and another 15 minutes to get to the small section of road near the end of a new development to get to where we opened the hatch to dangle the camera out the back. Again, a tether was in place, and my driver had a run down of the “how to drive with a person hanging out the back.”
At the end of the day. Safety is the most important thing to consider when taking these types of photos; hence the long winded description about it!
Now let’s get into the camera work ya?
The real big “secret” to taking great rolling shots? Lie to your camera!!
“What?”
Exactly. The trick with them isn’t driving so fast you cant help but capture motion, its not being so low that you scrape knuckles. (Although I did skin my own while shooting the above rolling shot of the yellow ST and the grey Evo above.) Nope. It is creating a situation in which your camera thinks the vehicle you are shooting, and the vehicle you are shooting out of are both standing still. How do you manage to trick a sophisticated piece of equipment worth more than rent in most cities believe it is static when it is in fact moving you ask? Easy. Steady speed from both vehicles. You see, if both the vehicle shooting and the subject vehicle are moving at the exact same speed, and the distance between them stays the exact same while the shutter is open; (I’ll get into shutter speed in a second) the camera is forced to pickup the motion in the world surrounding the subject, instead of in the subject itself. Communication between the drivers and the shooters is a must. I typically use hand signals and yell at whoever is driving the vehicle I’m in, but radios seem to be the most efficient.
“But what about the actual settings you use?”
I got you. The typical settings (and the reasons I use them) are as follows!
ISO: LOW LOW LOW LOW LOW!!! Grain across the images is the opposite of what I want, and if I’m shooting in the bright light, or even into sunset, I will hover my ISO around 50-100. If we are shooting in the dead of night, I may go up to 400-600 and MAYBE as high as 1200 if the situation depends on it! When it comes to ISO, I personally say the lower the better. It keeps the grain out of your image, and typically allows for a sharp shot! The trick here is learning your camera. Play with it in all sorts of lighting and find your cameras “Safe Zone” - ie. Minimal grain under all situations. But maybe you like the grain. Great, put it at 12000. Its your shot. I don’t care.
Aperture: This is that setting that Apple put in their iPhone a few years ago and called “portrait mode” and every white girl and basic bro went mad for it. The background is “blurred.” but not from motion. This is not how you capture the speed in a motion shot. It’s how you get a creamy background in a tight portrait. I shoot a very narrow aperture when shooting rollers to balance with a longer shutter speed. Usually between f7 - f14. Some people say that is way too high, but it works for me. This lets my camera take the entire car into focus while providing me with the ability to use a longer shutter speed to capture the Motion Blur. You would notice a “soft” or “blurry” trunk or roof line if your aperture is too low when shooting automotive. It was one of the first lessons to learn. If you want more on how I control that; slide in the DM’s. Or bug me to write about it.
Shutter Speed: This is where the blur comes from. Shutter speed measures how long your shutter is open for, in seconds. So a shot a 1/100 of a second, is a much faster speed than one at say 1/50. When it comes to rolling shots, I will typically set my shutter around 1/10 - 1/30 for a reliable result at slow speed, and 1/40 - 1/60 for a highway speed. The slower the shutter, the longer your exposure, and the more motion you are able to catch in camera. But be careful, 99% of rollers are blurry. If you’ve shot them before, you’ve probably spent the next 2 hours combing through 1689 images finding the 3 that turned out okay. The longer that shutter is open, the greater the chance of catching blur in the subject if the speed isn’t just right between the two cars. You’ll also be more at risk for catching any bumps in the road on camera, and those look terrible on rolling shots.
AF Mode: This one is important. And quite self explanatory, but it is something I overlooked for a long long time until I really understood it. There are three main modes. (I am speaking specifically about Sony here. Nikon is very similar and Canon has the same exact settings, except under different names. Learn your own gear.) My three settings are AF-A, AF-S, and AF-C. Lets start with AF-A. This is Area Focus - Automatic. Let the camera guess what is happening basically. Is the subject moving? Is the subject still? who knows. The camera will take its best guess and try to give you the shot you want. Next lets go into AF-S. Area Focus - Static. This is telling the camera your Subject is still. It’s not moving. Like a glass of juice, or that fruit bowl everyone seems to think looks so dang good in the morning light during your 5th hangover in Mexico. AF-C is Area Focus - Continuous. This is letting the camera know “Hey, that subject is moving, it’s doing a thing!” The camera can then adjust the way it focus’s to capture a moving subject. If you haven’t guessed by the way I’ve structured the last three sentences. I shoot AF-C for my rollers. It communicates to the camera that the subject may move slightly inside the camera’s mind and allows the focus settings to keep up easier than if I were to use AF-A or AF-S. I haven’t tried it yet, but a gimble and AF-S may have some interesting results…I should buy a gimble. (Steady Cam)
The best piece of advice that I can possibly give to you when shooting anything at all; is to learn your gear. Learn what you are comfortable shooting, and how you are comfortable to shoot it. Once it feels easy to you; step your game up. Learn something new. I’ve spent countless hours outside of vehicles trying time and time again to get that perfect shot, and your know what? Most of them have flaws, big flaws. Granted, I will always be my own harshest critique, but isn’t that what inspires me to do better? There are loads of things I would love to try, and have yet to experiment with, but this gives you a quick run down on how I manage to capture the rolling shots that I do. Handheld, and with the best possible results out of the camera. This blurb has nothing to do with any of my post production work, and by no means am I a certified photography instructor. But hey, there’s no bad place to learn something from! Post production is a whole different discussion and if you didn’t hate this little rambling, maybe you could convince me to do one on my Editing workflow.
Moral of the story: The more you practice, the better your results will be. (Duh) Now go take some rad photos and share them with me on social media!!
- SOL